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GENERAL MAINTENANCE:
Maintaining the Outlander is pretty straight forward with basic mechanical skills. Oil and Filter changes are covered in the owners Manual. One tricky area is how to grease the rear driveshaft.. The best way to do it is to park on a level surface, and leave the ATV in neutral. The front (engine side) U-joint can be accessed from the right side by rolling the machine until good access to the grease fitting presents itself. To grease the rear (diff side) U-Joint go around to the left side and roll the machine until the driveshaft turns 1/2 a turn, the grease fitting should be in a good postion to access. It should only take a few pumps until grease comes out of all 4 U-joint cups. Overgreasing will just make a mess in the frame, the trick is to grease a little bit often (every few rides) rather than grease alot every once in awhile.
For non OEM oil filters - use Kimpex Part number 020278
For non OEM priced oil, use Castrol GTX 10W40 or Castrol Syntec 10W40. Castrol is the oil supplier for BRP
For non OEM U-joints - Use Neapco 1-0121
Liquid cooled ATV engines run at a very high operating temperature. The ATV's cooling system is not very large therefore it needs all the help it can get from the radiator. During operation in Muddy conditions, one may expierence overheating due to a radiator plugged by dried mud, overheating is also compounded from slow speed operation and extra strain on the powertrain from running through mud.
In order to clean the radiator properly:
1) Remove both left and right Radiator shrouds located under front fenders (the plastic plugs are easily removed by inserting a small flat-blade screwdriver under the lip of the center section and pulling out, once center section is raised, the entire plug can be removed from bore) .
2) Unplug cooling fan and remove the fan from the ATV.
3) Spray down radiator front and back with a soap.. A Multi-purpose cleaner in a trigger operated spray bottle works best. Be sure to cover entire radiator with soap. Let soak for a few minutes
4) Rinse radiator with Garden hose from back to front ( a pressure washer is not recommended as this may damage radiator fins) Until water being expelled from radiator is clear.
5) Check radiator cleanliness by looking through rad from front, while holding a flashlight or trouble light on the opposite side, this will reveal any leftover mud between cooling fins.
6) Repeat cleaning as required until radiator is totally clean
7) Spin fan blades by hand to see if it rotates smoothly, clean fan as required (use as little water as possible)
8) Re-install fan and radiator shrouds.
Following these steps will help overheating on your next Muddy ride!
I've heard this question many times before: "Where is the drain for the Belt?"
For those of us who like to ride in deep water, we are often greeted with a wet CVT belt during crossing. This is most likely due to going too deep as the Outlander in Stock form is only good to about the seat before drowning the CVT housing. Owners may see the "drain" arrow on the floorboard with an arrow pointing toward the CVT housing, only to look under and see nothing.. But there is in fact something there... One of the CVT housing bolts is lower than the rest, and on the opposite side of the cover gasket. Removing this bolt will drain the CVT housing..
Although its not explained in the owners manual...WHICH IT SHOULD BE!! I think this is a scam as it states to visit the dealer upon sinking the ATV, this issue is definatly not warranty, so its a good ploy for dealers to make some quick cash.
This brings up another issue: There are no tools supplied in the tool-kit that will access this bolt!! Riders should be advised to bring an 8mm socket, a 1/4" Rachet and some long extentions to access the bolt if they are planning on some water crossings while out on the trail.
I would advise owners to take preventative measures to avoid this issue, Either install a snorkel, or a more suitable drain.. Feel free to check out what I have done in regards to this under "Modifications"
Some owners may expierience poor clutch performance after drowning ATV in Muddy water. This is most likely due to a dirty CVT.
Symptoms of this are:
1) Belt squealing
2) Stalling while coming to a stop.
3) Hard shifting in and out of gear while running, But OK with engine off.
1) Remove the left side footrest. There is a black plastic dart in the inner front fenderwell
and in the rear fender well that needs to be removed so the foot rest can be removed.
2) Loosen the clamps on the ventt ubes coming from the clutch cover. Remove the clutch cover bolts.
Slowly remove the clutch cover being careful not to damage the clutch cover gasket.
3) Insert m8 X 80mm bolt into threaded hole near center of secondary clutch. Thread in all the way,
clutch should spread apart and allow belt removal.
NOTE: shiny coller that rides on shaft between primary sheaves. Hold this coller to prevent removal during clutch removal.
4)Remove the center clutch bolt (19mm) from the Primary clutch. LEFT HAND THREAD. Impact is handy right now.
CAUTION: The clutch is under spring tention and when the bolt is removed the clutch may pop off the machine.
Once bolt has been removed grab onto the outer half of clutch, keep entire assembly together and pull off.
If the clutch does not pop off, tap it lightly with a rubber mallet.
5) Wrap a rag around the remaining shiny coller on crankshaft. Pull coller off shaft but stuff rags in its place.
There are dogs and springs under this coller which may fly out if your not careful.
6) clean all metal parts as required with brake clean.. With a scotchbrite pad you can polish the sheaves
Ensure the weights are looking and acting smooth. Although tempting - do not lube any rollers or pivots,
Oil attracts belt dust and clutch will wear out faster.
You should notice some Anti-seize compound inside the shiny coller.. Clean it all out and paint on some new stuff before installing.
Clean the crankshaft of the same stuff and leave it dry.
*PROBLEM AREA:* The shiny coller must fit nicely into bore on outer clutch sheave. If it doesn't
then clutch will not totally disengage or be lazy backshifting.
7) Check fit between Shiny coller and associated bore on Outer clutch sheave. It should slide in and out with
little resistance or play. If it doesn't slide nicely, clean it until it does. It is not adviseable to sand or grind
the fabric bushing inside the clutch bore. You may apply the slightest bit of grease here to help out.
8)Install the springs and dogs into the crankshaft and install the shiny coller (don't forget to anti-seize inside)
9) Install the Outer Clutch sheave and install center bolt, being careful not to cross thread it.
Torque to 74ftlbs.
10) Although not usually required - To clean the secondary, Remove bolt to get belt off. and remove center bolt (17mm RH thread) CAUTION: Under spring tention!!
11) Keep track of the plastic helix and the metal gear behind the clutch as you remove the clutch.
These will normally stay on the machine.
12) Clean up secondary clutch parts with brake clean and reinstall in reverse order. Secondary bolt torque: 44ft/lbs.
13) Once both clutches are back together Install belt and run up in neutral to check for smooth
operation.. Because the engine is not underload, it wont take full throttle for full belt shift.
14) Reinstall covers, vent hoses etc. Test drive to check operation.
NOTE: Use mean value of exhaust/intake to ensure a proper valve adjustment.
Hold the adjusting screw at the proper position and torque the locking nut.
Repeat the procedure for each valve.
Before installing valve cover, recheck all valve adjustments.
Some Outlander Owners have experienced a problem with Hard starting or not being able to hold an idle while running. The main cause for this is that the air intake and Carb diaphram are dirty. The air box has a vent which runs into the top of the carburator. If you happen to get dirt into this vent, it will affect the low speed/ idle circuit diaphram in the carburator.
To rectify this matter, you will need to:
1) Remove the airbox to gain acces to the carburator.
2)Remove carburator from the engine to gain acces to the top of the carb.
3)Remove the top of the carb as required to gain acces to rubber diaphram located under the cap.
4)Clean this diaphram with brake cleaner and reassemble as required.
Also please note that 2003 and 2004 models did not come with a filter in the airbox to protect this vent from dirt. You will need to order a vent and clip to install into the port on the airbox to prevent future problems.
<---- Note Rubber tube that goes from Airbox to carburator
Exploded view of Carburator, item 10 is the diaphram which requires cleaning
