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Disclaimer: These ATV modifications are mere suggestions. Webmaster will not be responsible for detremental effects caused by said modifications. Modify YOUR ATV at YOUR own risk.
CARB VENT:
During water crossing, one may expierience loss of engine performance eventhough the clutches are still dry.. This is caused by the vent for the carburator being under water.
A simple fix for this is to purchase some 3/16" windsheild washer hose and a union (to join 2 hoses together)
locate carb vent by looking at carb from right side of machine.. note carb vent tube running from top of carb down the right rear of carb body and through clamp near float bowl.. Simply lift tube to get it out of the float bowl clamp, install a 3/16" union and then extended hose on other side of union.. Route and secure hose up near handlebars. Ensure hose does not rub on anything and make sure its not kinked.
CVT SNORKEL:
I have posted Pics of a Snorkel for deep water use. The Yellow is another Outlander Owner's idea. The purpose of these snorkels is to allow the ATV to travel in deeper water than the stock set-up will allow.
GYPSY SNORKEL:
I have finally designed a system that is made entirely of black PVC plumbing pipe. I feel it is the best way to provide the best CVT ventaltion over flexable tubing. It is 2" pipe where possible and 1.5" near the exhaust so that the side panel will fit properly. Once complete it was wrapped with foam pipe insulation so that the exhaust does not melt the plastic pipe.
1.5" 90* Street elbow under frame mated to 1.5" 45* street elbow, then to a lenth of 1.5" pipe
2" 90* Elbow coming out of CVT. a lenth of 2" pipe, then reduced to 1.5" under frame rail
Pic of reducer behind fender. 2" Street elbow will go on next to bring it out the top.
1.5" pipe running up right side. 22.5* elbow to get around shifter linkage. Fitting behind front fender is reducer to bring it back up to 2"
Pic of entire system before final assembly. I have made it into 3 separate modules so that I can take it apart in pieces if need be. Module joint held together with 2 self tapping screws and joints siliconed.
Front CVT intake: Straight shot down from fender, with 2" 22.5* elbow
Pic of CVT exhaust once in place and wrapped with pipe insulation.
Final outcome: Snorkels stick out about 8" above fenders, yet still provide most of the front rack to be used. 2" 22.5* elbows make it point straight up, and 90* elbow prevent water from getting in.
MAX HEAVY DUTY SPRINGS:
Some Outlander owners (non-max) have found the front and/or rear suspension to be too soft for their liking. A common fix for this is to install suspension springs from a MAX 2-up model. The MAX model of Outlander is equipped with heavier springs to accomodate the weight of two riders. Front springs can be easily swapped by removing the front struts, then removing and swapping springs.. The process is very simillar to working on a front wheel drive car. A strut spring compressor tool is required. This mod will provide a stiffer front end for aggresive trail riding and less "brake dive" when braking hard.
If the highest rear preload adjustment is still not stiff enough for your liking, Rear springs can be swapped also in favour for MAX springs. But the Max springs need to cut in order to fit the shock. EPI now makes a set of heavy duty rear springs for the 400
FAN OVERRIDE:
Some owners who run in hot climates may want to control their cooling fan operation manually, rather than leaving it up to the temperature switch located in the radiator. In most cases the temperature switch will only activate the cooling fan only a few degrees short of overheating. I have modified my cooling fan circuit so that I may turn on the cooling fan as I wish.
In order to do this you will need:
1) 2 wire tap connectors to splice into OEM cooling fan circuit
2) 2 female spade connectors
3) 3-4 ft (approx.) of dual wire 14ga. wire (twin 14ga wires within 1 loom) Or 6-8 ft. of regular 14ga wire cut in half and taped together
4) 1 2 Position switch (on/off), preferably waterproof.
Directions:
1)Disconnect battery
2)Remove right side fan shroud located in Right front fender.
Note temperature switch in bottom right of radiator, remove harness from switch - be careful not to break locking tab.
3)With wire splicer, tap into one wire of sensor plug, do not cut wire that goes to sensor plug as this circuit needs to remain in tact.
4) Mount switch in convienient location that can be accessed from driver seat.
5) Run wire up to switch and Join opposite end of this wire to switch with female spade connector.
6) Perform above procedure with the other wire on temperature sensor, joining it to other side of switch.
7) Loom and secure all wiring to prevent wire chafing. waterproof all connections to prevent corrosion.
8) Re-connect Temperature sensor harness back into sensor.
9) re-connect Battery and check operation.
10) Re-install Right side shroud.
*NOTE* This switch will be operational regardless of key position, be sure to mount switch so it will not be disturbed during storage or transporting ATV. Also, please refrain from running cooling fan for extended periods of time as this may overheat and burn out the cooling fans electric motor.
This is a basic electrical schematic of the fan override mod.
Photo courtesy of Grizzhopper.com
COOLANT TEMPERATURE GUAGE:
In an effort to battle high engine temps I have taken the liberty to install a coolant temperature guage. It is made by I purchased it from Wal-mart for $25 cdn. It is a mechanical guage so it will read temp regardless of key position, and it should stand up well to moisture - but it does have a long capillary tube to deal with (Do not cut the capilary tube)... I installed the guage below the handlebars along the left side - opposite the gear shifter. I found there was enough clearance here and it can still be seen from the drivers seat. Another bonus to this location for me was that I've already installed switches for hand and thumb warmers there, so with all the mods I've done so far, I've only ever cut one body panel. There is 2 wires to hook up for this guage: + & - for the backlit bulb, I simply tapped into the wiring for my thumbwarmer. One could also change the guage light colour with the supplied caps for the bulb.
For the temperature sensor, My original plan was to mount it where the switch for the coolant temp light is located on the cylinder head, I then found out that this is not easily done because the switch threads are not NPT.
I proceeded to remove the rad hose from the head to the radiator, spliced in a T-Fitting and reinstall onto the ATV...Then installed the sender into the T fitting and tied up the extra cappilary tube up out of the way.
Test drove ATV and checked for leaks.. Since its late winter/ early spring here, an overheating scenario is hard to come by. But I did find that the engine ran at about 180 - 200* F Fan Kicks on at 208*F and kicks off at about 195*F. I can only assume that the light would come on at approx. 215*F
I found the stock coolant drain at the Water pump useless. I pulled the rad hose off instead.
This is the fitting I used to splice into the rad hose. 3/4" barbed on both ends with 3/4NPT in the center.
Pic of T- Fitting installed into rad hose mounted in frame. Sorry for not taking pic while hose was removed.
2" Guage installed in ATV pod. NOTE: If installing guage here, get it as far away as possible from the grey fuel shut off plastic, I overlooked that and it cost me some extra trimming.
Under chassis view of guage. Pic does not show well, but I had sufficient room to mount guage.
This is basically the view from the drivers seat.
Close up of guage. Engine runs at about 200*F so needle position can be seen well from drivers seat.
